Central Xinjiang

Central Xinjiang

Bounded by deserts and mountain ranges, much of present-day Central Xinjiang would have been completely familiar to Silk Road traders on the Northern Route to Kashgar. Today the largest and most important city in the region is Urumqi, though for travellers the ancient cities around Turpan, the Tianshan mountains, and the Buddha caves of Kuqa are the bigger draws.

Urumqi

PHONE CODE 0991 / Pop 3.1 million

Urumqi’s more than three million urban residents live in a city that sprawls 20km across a fertile plain in the shadow of the Tian Shan mountains. High-rise apartments and tower blocks form a modern skyline that will soon dash any thoughts of spotting wandering camels and ancient caravanserais.

As a fast-growing Central Asian hub (high-speed rail is expected to reach the city by 2015) the city does business with traders from Beijing to Baku and plays host to an exotic mix of people. Cyrillic signs and fragrant corner kebab stands add a Central Asian feel, though in reality over 75% of Urumqi’s inhabitants are Han Chinese.

Urumqi is not a historic city, but the provincial museum is excellent and there are some interesting Uighur districts. If you find yourself hanging around for a Kazakh or Kyrgyz visa, consider a side trip to Turpan or Hami.

Xinjiang Autonomous Region Museum

MUSEUM

(Xinjiang Zizhiqu Bowuguan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 132 Xibei Lu; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)FREE

Xinjiang’s massive provincial museum is a must for Silk Road aficionados. The highlight is the locally famous ‘Loulan Beauty’, one of the 3800-year-old desert-mummified bodies of Indo-European ancestry that became symbols of Uighur independence in the 1990s. Other exhibits include some amazing silk and sculpture from Astana and an introduction to all of the province’s minorities. From the Hongshan Intersection, take bus 7 for four stops and ask to get off at the museum (bowuguan).

Erdaoqiao Market

BAZAAR

(Erdaoqiao Shichang MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jiefang Nanlu)

The Erdaoqiao Market and nearby International Bazaar (Guoji Dabazha) have undergone extensive ‘redevelopment’ in recent years and are now aimed more at Chinese tour groups than Uighur traders. Planted in the bazaar is a replica of the Kalon Minaret from Bukhara in Uzbekistan (though the 12th-century original doesn’t have an elevator inside it). The surrounding streets are worth a stroll for their Uighur markets and snack stalls.

Hongshan Park

PARK

(Hongshan Gongyuan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; admission ¥10; hdawn-dusk)

More of an amusement park, but with good city views, particularly from the 18th-century hilltop pagoda. The main southern entrance is to the north of the Xidaqiao Intersection.

People’s Park

PARK

(Renmin Gongyuan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; admission ¥5; h7.30am-dusk) A green oasis, with north and south entrances.

Sleeping

Maitian International Youth Hostel

HOSTEL$

(Maitian Guoji Qingnian Lushe MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %459 1488; www.xjmaitian.net; 726 Youhao Nanlu; dm ¥45-55, r ¥160; iW)

On the east side of the Parkson Shopping Mall, centrally located Maitian has simple doubles and dorms, some with private bathrooms, and a pleasant common area–bar. The shared bathrooms are pretty grotty, but the rooms do get a regular cleaning. Book ahead in summer. Private rooms are discounted from November to mid-April.

White Birch International Youth Hostel

HOSTEL$

(Baihualin Guoji Qingnian Lushe MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %488 1428; www.yhaxinjiang.com; 186 Nanhu Nanlu; dm ¥40-50, d ¥120; iW)

The English-speaking staff at this hostel are usually friendly and can help organise trips and onward transport. It’s a bit out of the centre but rooms are modern, and there's laundry and a nearby park. Email for bus directions or arrange an airport pickup. From the train station a taxi is around ¥15.

Super 8

(Suba Jiudian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %559 0666; www.super8.com.cn; 140 Gongyuan Beijie; tw ¥218-228; aW)

Quietly located behind People’s Park, this is the best of the budget chain hotels, representing good value with its ultra-neat rooms, modern bathrooms and free Chinese-style breakfast.

Yema International Business Clubhouse

HOTEL$$$

(Yema Guoji Shangwu Huiguan %768 8888; 158 Kunming Lu; tw incl breakfast ¥598-698; ai)

This elegant and surprisingly stylish modern hotel has an art gallery, wine bar and restaurant, mixing traditional Chinese design with urban chic. It even has its own zoo out the back with rare animals including Przewalski horses (wild horses indigenous to Central Asia). There is a range of rooms, from less expensive Japanese-style doubles to larger rooms in the main tower. The hotel is located north of the city, next to the Kazakhstan Consulate.

Eating & Drinking

Wuyi Night Market

MARKET

(Wuyi Yeshi MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Wuyi Lu)

This animated night market was closed at the time of writing as part of the government's campaign against terrorism. It was well known for its shish kebabs and handmade noodles, so check its status when in town.

Carrefour

SUPERMARKET$

(Jialefu MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The branches of this French supermarket chain, notably in Erdaoqiao Market and near White Birch International Youth Hostel, are good for produce and both have excellent-value cafeterias.

Tianfu Zhengcai

SHANGHAINESE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %773 0076; 17 Lanxiuyuan Xijie; mains ¥15-40; h11am-11pm)

A cosy and friendly neighbourhood place just northwest of the Hongshan Intersection, featuring tasty eastern Chinese dishes. Try the Shanghai-style braised meatballs (hongshao shizi tou;) or tiger-skin peppers with braised eggplant (hupi lazi shaoqiezi;). It’s down a side alley.

May Flower

UIGHUR$$$

(Wuyuehua MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 153 Longquan Jie; meals ¥25-55; h11am-midnight)

Though part of a chain this place is still recommended for delicious Uighur cuisine. Try the specialty, polo (rice pilaf; zhuafan), along with a few sticks of shish kebab and a glass of pomegranate juice, then sit back and enjoy the traditional live music (8pm).

Aroma

A’nuoma Xicanting MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 196 Jianshe Lu; meals ¥40-100; hnoon-midnight)

A Maltese chef who somehow washed up in Urumqi runs this cosy and warm bistro. Pizzas, pastas and risottos are local favourites, or sink your teeth into a tasty steak. Most of the ingredients are either home-grown or homemade. It’s opposite the Laiyuan Hotel.

Fubar

PUB FOOD$$$

(Fuba MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 40 Gongyuan Beijie; beer ¥25-35, mains ¥35-65; h11am-4am; W)

This well-known, long-running expat watering hole recently changed hands. In addition to a good selection of imported beers, and classic pub grub like pizzas and burgers, you'll find some Spanish fare. Young expat teachers and volunteers congregate here, making this a good place to get the skinny on activities around Urumqi.

Fubar is on a street of bars and clubs if you want to make a big night of it.

Shopping

Navigate the Outdoors

OUTDOOR EQUIPMENT

(Changxing Huwai Yongpin Dian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; phone 453-0938; 437 Youhao Nanlu)

Almost directly opposite the China Southern Airlines Hotel, this small shop rents camping gear such as tents (per day ¥15), sleeping bags (per day ¥10) and sleeping pads (per day ¥5).

Information

Bank of China

BANK

(Zhongguo Yinhang GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jiefang Beilu & Dongfeng Lu; h10am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3.30pm Sat & Sun)

Can handle most transactions and has an ATM (and at other branches).

China International Travel Service

(CITS; Zhongguo Guoji Luxingshe GOOGLE MAP ; phone 282 1428; www.xinjiangtour.com; 33 Renmin Lu; h10am-7.30pm Mon-Fri)

This office runs standard tours around the province and can supply a driver and English-speaking guide.

China Post

POST OFFICE

(Zhongguo Youzheng GOOGLE MAP ; Hongshan Intersection; h10am-10pm)

The main branch handles all international parcels.

Public Security Bureau

POLICE

(PSB; Gong’anju GOOGLE MAP ; %281 0452, ext 3456; Kelamayi Donglu; h10am-1.30pm & 4-6pm Mon-Fri)

You should be able to renew a visa here but it might take two weeks.

Xinjiang Tianshan Fengqing Travel Agency

TRAVEL AGENCY

(Xinjiang Tianshan Fengqing Luxingshe GOOGLE MAP ; %883-9406; Bogeda Binguan, 253 Guangming Lu)

For trips to Kanas Lake.

Getting There & Away

Air

International flights include Almaty (Kazakhstan), Bishkek and Osh (Kyrgyzstan), Baku (Azerbaijan), Tbilisi (Georgia), Istanbul (Turkey), Islamabad (Pakistan), Moscow (Russia), Dushanbe (Tajikistan), Tashkent (Uzbekistan) and Tehran (Iran). Some of these are seasonal and many are suspended without warning.

You can get to Urumqi from almost anywhere in China. Destinations within Xinjiang include Altay (Aletai), Hotan (Hetian), Kashgar (Kashi), Kuqa (Kuche), Tacheng and Yining. China Southern (Nanfang Hangkong Shoupiaochu GOOGLE MAP ; %95539; http://skypearl.csair.com/cn/; 576 Youhao Nanlu) has the most flights to and around Xinjiang, with a central booking office in the Southern Airlines Pearl International Hotel.

Bus

Two long-distance bus stations in Urumqi serve northern and southern destinations. The main bus station (Nianzigou Changtu Qichezhan GOOGLE MAP ; Heilongjiang Lu) has sleeper buses to the following:

• Bu’erjin ¥178 to ¥188, 12 hours, three daily (11.15am, 8.10pm and 8.40pm)
• Hami ¥150 to ¥160, seven hours, three daily (11am, 1pm and 8pm)
• Yining ¥178 to ¥188, 11 to 12 hours, almost hourly (8.30am to 9pm)

BRT bus 1 runs from the train station to Hongshan, passing Heilongjiang Lu on the way. Bus 44 or 906 pass directly in front of the bus station.

The south bus station (nanjiao keyunzhan) has frequent departures to the following:

• Hotan ¥370 to ¥390, 24 hours, every 30 minutes in the afternoon only (crossing the Taklamakan Desert)
• Kashgar ¥260 to ¥280, 24 hours, every 40 minutes in the afternoon only
• Kuqa ¥145 to ¥220, 12 to 13 hours, every 30 minutes in the afternoon only
• Turpan ¥45, 2½ hours, every 20 minutes

There is also a once-daily bus that travels to Cherchen (¥320 to ¥340, 22 to 24 hours) on the southern Silk Road, departing at 7pm. A seat in a private car to Turpan costs ¥85 and takes around two hours. Bus 51 or 7 will get you to the south bus station from Hongshan Intersection. BRT bus 3 will get you here from the South Lake Square (via People's Sq) .

Train

Urumqi is expected to be connected to China's high-speed rail network by 2015. The following are regular train routes and schedules with hard/soft sleeper ticket prices:

• Beijing ¥575/887, 33 to 41 hours, two daily (10.35am and 5.33pm)
• Dunhuang (via Liuyuan) ¥214/325, 8½ to 10 hours, frequent
• Hami ¥148/223, 5½ to 7½ hours, frequent
• Kashgar ¥343/527 24 to 30 hours, three daily (8.43am, 9.17am and11.51am)
• Kuqa ¥123-214/210-325, 14 to 19 hours, four daily (8.43am, 9.17am, 11.51am and 9.21pm)
• Yining ¥150/233, 10 hours, four daily (two at 8.50pm, 10.20pm and 11.17pm)

Getting Around

The airport is 16km northwest of the centre; a taxi costs about ¥40 to ¥50. An airport bus (¥10) runs straight south through town via Hongshan Intersection to the train station every 30 minutes. In the city centre, an airport shuttle (¥15, free for China Southern passengers) leaves from the Southern Airlines Pearl International Hotel every 30 minutes starting at 7.30am. You’ll need to arrive 10 minutes early to get a seat.

A subway system was under construction at the time of writing and as this is expected to disrupt bus lines for years to come, regard the following as mere guidelines.

The fastest and most useful buses are the BRT (Bus Rapid Transit) expresses, which dodge traffic by having their very own bus lanes. BRT 1 runs from the railway station to Hongshan Intersection and then north up Beijing Nanlu. BRT 3 runs from the south bus station to People's Sq and the South Lake Sq. Fares are a flat ¥1. See www.chinabrt.org for a route map. Other useful buses (¥1) include bus 7, which runs up Xinhua Lu from the southern bus station through the Xidaqiao and Hongshan Intersections, and bus 52 from the train station to Hongshan Intersection.